Memories of the Abode of Clouds

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Arpita Bhattacharjee

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Total Trips: 13 | View All Trips

Post Date : 02 Feb 2025
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This is a journey to the abode of clouds, Meghalaya. Although I'm a travel enthusiast, I never considered venturing out during Durga Puja—the most cherished festival for Bengalis. Yet this time, there seems to be a subtle shift in my subconscious. This destination, so close to where I spent my childhood, evokes a deeper connection. The thought of revisiting those memories promises an experience even more rewarding than the celebration of Durga Puja itself.

It was a 5-night, 6-day trip. We had a morning flight to Guwahati, as we decided not to book a direct flight to Shillong due to the risk of cancellations caused by cloudy weather. Instead, we planned to spend our first night in Guwahati and enjoy the evening on a river cruise along the Brahmaputra. My husband, being a river enthusiast, chose accommodation close to the Brahmaputra so that he could spend time gazing at the river from the balcony. We booked a one-night stay at River View Guest House, located in central Guwahati but right on the banks of the Brahmaputra. From our Guest house balcony, we had a clear view of the world's smallest inhabited river island, Umananda.

We reached Guwahati around 1:30 PM, and a car arranged by the guest house picked us up from the airport. The guest house was modest, but the room was clean and equipped with all the necessary amenities. They offered a variety of breakfast options, although lunch and dinner were not available. Mineral water bottles were also provided at the guest house.

Both the manager and the staff were accommodating and displayed friendly behavior. Upon my request, they prepared a freshly cooked lunch for my child as soon as we arrived, which was much appreciated.

We had made a prior booking for the river cruise. The 90-minute cruise offered a scenic tour around Umananda, accompanied by live music, traditional Bihu dance performances, tea, and authentic Assamese snacks. Initially, I thought we could disembark at Umananda, but later realized the cruise only circles around the island. Nevertheless, we thoroughly enjoyed the ambiance of the cruise and the breathtaking sunset over the Brahmaputra, the ninth-longest river in the world.

We spent most of the ride standing on the upper deck, trying to capture the indescribable beauty of the river on camera and watching the local people crossing the river—likely part of their daily routine—to reach the villages on the banks of North Guwahati. Don’t miss trying the Axomiya Til Pitha among the snacks; it’s a delightful treat!

Once the cruise ended, we took an auto-rickshaw back to the guest house. We decided to have an early dinner as we had to leave for Shillong early the next morning. The guest house manager had already suggested a restaurant for dinner. However, it was still early in the evening, and we heard about a very old Durga Puja celebration just a 2-minute walk away.

We visited Lataxil Field, where the Durga Puja celebrations were in full swing. The rural festival of Bihu was uniquely brought to urban life, showcased on the stage at Lataxil for the first time. We spent some time there, soaking in the lively atmosphere, and fulfilled my child's request to enjoy a small ride at the puja grounds.

We finally went to Tholgiri, a restaurant specializing in ethnic Assamese cuisine. It was quite an interesting place with an exotic display of handcrafted silk, traditional pickles and spices, Assamese literature books, and a cozy seating area with sofas made of cane and bamboo, complete with a center table. The mud walls were adorned with displays of different types of rice cultivated in Assam, adding a rustic touch to the ambiance.

The lady serving the food always wore a warm smile, making us feel as though we were guests in her own home. The food was delicious, though mildly flavored, and the combination of their hospitality and tasty dishes truly satisfied our souls. A must-try item is the refreshing Thekera Tenga Juice, perfect to end the meal.

I woke up early in the morning to revisit my childhood memories, watching the fog-filled Brahmaputra before sunrise. I spent some time alone on the balcony before anyone else woke up. We started our day with a refreshing bath and a wonderful complimentary breakfast at the guest house. Afterward, we were all set to begin our journey to Shillong, the city of pines. 

The 100-year-old iconic Pinewood Hotel in Shillong, which we had booked for our 3-night, 4-day stay, is approximately 98 kms from the guest house in Guwahati.  The journey that takes around 3 hours by car.  I should mention that our car was arranged by the Pinewood Hotel, covering pickup from Guwahati, tours of Shillong, Cherrapunji, and Dawki, and a drop back to Guwahati for a total cost of 16,000/-.

On our way, we stopped at Umiam Lake, also known as Bara Pani, before reaching Shillong. This beautiful reservoir, located about 15 kms from Shillong city, features a dam built for hydroelectric power generation.

We walked along the pathway beside the lake, eventually reaching the main spot at Umiam Lake. Overwhelmed by its serene beauty, I called my father to express my gratitude for encouraging us to visit and appreciate the untouched, natural beauty of Shillong, rather than anything artificially made. From the lake, I could see layers of hills on the other side, shrouded in fog, adding to the pristine and tranquil charm of Umiam Lake.

We spent some time enjoying the picturesque view, while my son played on the lawn with other children. Unfortunately, we missed the boat ride as the counter had closed by the time we arrived. The lunch break for the boating service lasted one and a half hours. We decided not to wait and continued our journey to Shillong city. However, I now regret not waiting longer at the lake.

Our driver suggested visiting the Don Bosco Museum after lunch. Looking back, I feel we could have skipped the museum to wait for the boat ride and spend more peaceful moments in the lap of nature.

We had our lunch at Mawlai, just before entering Shillong city, at a small but beautifully decorated restaurant called Iolin. The restaurant is run by the daughter of the lady who originally established it. I must mention that I have never seen such a spotless kitchen in any restaurant before.

We ordered boiled vegetables for my child, who absolutely loved the dish. The portion was so generous that we ended up enjoying it as well. Although it was called boiled vegetables, it resembled a vegetable stew, but without milk. Later that evening, we tried the authentic British-style vegetable stew at the Pinewood Hotel restaurant. However, in my opinion, the Khasi-style vegetable stew from the Iolin restaurant was far more flavorful and admirable.

We then headed to the Don Bosco Museum, a captivating glimpse into the diverse culture and heritage of Northeast India. It is a seven-story museum, with each floor showcasing a unique theme, such as costumes, crockery, musical instruments, weapons, and more, representing the rich culture of the northeastern region. At the top, there's a skywalk and a cozy cafe with glass windows, offering breathtaking views of Shillong, often called the 'Scotland of the East', the most charming hill station I've ever seen.

It was early evening, almost dusk, when we reached Ward's Lake, just a 2-minute walk from the Pinewood Hotel. This lake, built in 1894, was named after Sir William Ward, the then Chief Commissioner of Assam. It is surrounded by a picturesque garden with the lake at its center. The layout of the lake, combined with the city roads encircling it, creates the impression of being in a charming European town.

My son immediately noticed the boats on the lake and insisted on going for a ride. Having missed boating at Umiam Lake despite promising him, we couldn’t refuse this time. He also had a wonderful time running around the park—his favorite activity—before we went boating. Seeing his joy and excitement made for a truly heart-warming end to the day.

We finally arrived at the historic Pinewood Hotel, built by a Swiss couple in 1898. Nestled on a lush green hillock, the hotel is constructed with pinewood and features Burma teak flooring. The rooms and cottages are designed with modern amenities. We were thrilled to find a large fireplace in the living room and a smaller one next to the bed in our bedroom. The hotel's layout, combined with its amenities, truly evoked the feeling of staying in a classic European home.

There is a banquet hall, along with a coffee shop and a restaurant, located next to the reception. After freshening up following a long day, we ordered food from the restaurant and had our dinner in the cottage. We requested separate, non-spicy food for my kid, and they served it accordingly. The staff was courteous and accommodating.

We had our dinner and tried to go to bed as early as possible due to the chilling cold we felt on the first night. We also had an early morning plan for Cherrapunji next day.

Daylight entered through the ventilator and woke me up at 5:30 a.m. I woke up immersed in my childhood memories. I had never experienced this since leaving this part of the world, as the houses where we live now don't have ventilators.

We got ready for our journey to Cherrapunji, a place we had always read about in books for its heavy rainfall. We couldn't decide whether we were lucky or unlucky for not experiencing even a little rain that day. After having our complimentary breakfast at the hotel, we started our journey.

We visited Shillong Peak and Elephant Falls in Shillong on our way to Cherrapunji. Shillong Peak is the highest point in the area, operated by the Indian Air Force. Access to the peak requires taking a local vehicle, costing ₹200, and carrying an ID card, which must be shown at the Air Force campus gate.

Once we arrived, we enjoyed a beautiful view of Shillong. Many people were dressed in Khasi attire, taking photos in the garden at the peak. We also climbed the tower and took some pictures before returning within half an hour.

Our next destination, one of the most important tourist attractions in Shillong, was Elephant Falls, located 12 km from the city. This is a 3-tiered waterfall named by a British man who spotted a rock resembling an elephant near the falls. Unfortunately, the rock was destroyed during an earthquake.

To view the falls, we had to descend a staircase. The entry fee is 100/- per person. The falls, along with the pathway leading to them, are surrounded by lush green hills. The first tier is just a short walk, but the breathtaking third tier is at a considerable distance. The staircase can be slippery in some places due to water from the falls, making the trek slightly challenging for older visitors, though manageable for young adults.

When we finally reached the third tier, the mesmerizing view made it all worth it. The beauty of the falls made us forget both the steep entry fee and the effort it took to reach there.

The breathtaking sight of clouds forming from a valley was an experience I witnessed for the first time at the first destination towards Cherrapunji, Mawkdok Valley. We stopped for a while to enjoy the stunning view of the beautiful valley and take some pictures. We saw some people enjoying the thrilling zipline activity above the ravine. It looked like a small bird gliding through the ravine of green hills.

Our next destination was Seven Sister Falls in Cherrapunji. We had our lunch at a restaurant before reaching there. The driver had mentioned that over the past 3-4 months, whenever he brought tourists here, the falls were completely hidden by clouds. Unfortunately, when we arrived, all seven falls were covered by clouds too, leaving us a bit disappointed. I kept waiting, hoping to catch a glimpse of at least one stream. Suddenly, the clouds cleared for 2-3 minutes, revealing five of the seven falls. We sat there for a while, surrounded by clouds passing through us. My son was thoroughly enjoying the experience. It felt wonderful to see him so connected with nature, rather than being entertained in a play zone at a mall.

While heading to our next destination, Nohkalikai Falls, a car returning from the falls waved at us with smiles, hinting that we might not see anything. My sister-in-law's husband, who had visited a month earlier, shared that they had to wait for two hours to see the falls but assured us it was worth the wait.

When we arrived at the spot, the falls were shrouded in dense clouds. My husband, noticing a few shops selling Naga shawls, decided to check them out instead of waiting for the clouds to clear.

To our surprise, within just 5 to 10 minutes, I saw the clouds parting, revealing the magnificent falls and the emerald-green plunge pool at the base. Overwhelmed with excitement, I started shouting to call my husband and child to witness the view. However, as my voice wasn’t reaching them and I didn’t want to miss a moment of the spectacular sight, I chose to stay and marvel at the falls instead of going to fetch them myself.

Nohkalikai Falls is the tallest plunge waterfall in India, and its beauty is beyond words. The falls derive their name from a tragic legend about a Khasi woman named Ka Likai. The story, widely told among the locals, speaks of a heartbreaking and terrible event in her life. The falls stand as a silent witness to her sorrowful tale, making them not just a natural wonder but also a place steeped in history and emotion.

It was already evening when we headed to our last destination of the day, Daithlen Falls. Despite the late hour, I didn’t want to miss the spot, as it was my first chance to stand where the waterfall originates and feel the water touches my feet before it cascades down. The journey to the falls and back to the highway was truly adventurous, as the road conditions were terrible, and the route passed through a forest.

When we arrived at the falls, it was nearly dark. A few people were sitting on the rocky plateau of the riverbed, illuminated by moonlight. I attempted to get closer to the falls, but the visibility was too low. The riverbed was uneven, with potholes, so my husband cautioned me not to venture too far. I stood on top of the falls for a short while, feeling the power of the water beneath me, before heading back.

As we returned to the car, I noticed the iron bridge we had crossed earlier starting to disappear under a blanket of clouds. The moonlight shining over the rocky hillocks and the bridge covered in mist created a heavenly scene, one I will never forget.

The return journey from the falls to the highway was a mix of excitement and fear, as we navigated the dark forest. Once back on the highway, we stopped at a large restaurant for some tea, which was refreshing after the tiring journey.

We finally reached our hotel around 9 PM. After a quick dinner, we went to bed, eager for the next day’s adventures. Our plan included visiting Mawlynnong Village, the living root bridge, and the breathtaking Dawki River. Additionally, I included Krang Suri Waterfalls in our itinerary, with a plan to return to Shillong via the scenic Jaintia Hills.

Since I knew the day's schedule would be quite hectic, we made sure to be ready by 8:30 AM. After having breakfast at the hotel, we set off for an exciting day of exploration.

Our first destination of the day was the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Living Root Bridge at Mawlynnong. It took us almost three hours to reach there. My son was nauseated and hungry, so we had lunch at a small restaurant near the parking area. The food was just okay. It is recommended to have lunch at the Mawlynnong village parking spot, as you'll find more options there.

After lunch, we started walking toward the Living Root Bridge. There are two entrances and parking areas from where the trek starts for the bridge. To reach it, you need to descend via a combination of regular and stone stairs. The trek takes about 15-20 minutes.

I was truly stunned to see such a strong bridge naturally formed from roots of Ficus Elastica tree. It is a unique creation where humans have skilfully used nature to connect villages. This Khasi architecture brings people together in an era that prioritizes connecting with machines over human relationships. Surrounded by lush green hills, with water flowing over rocks beneath the bridge, the place looked absolutely scenic.

Climbing back up to the parking area from the bridge after lunch was a bit tiresome. We then headed toward Mawlynnong Village, known as the cleanest village in Asia. The entry fee was 200/-.

As we walked through the clean lanes, surrounded by tall palm trees and beautiful flower beds, we spotted a bamboo tower inside the village. Along the way, we saw villagers' houses and homestays beside the road. It didn't feel like a typical village—it was more like walking through a beautiful garden. There was no waste or even fallen leaves on the roads, as the villagers constantly clean the area.

I assumed that not only Mawlynnong but many villages in the Khasi Hills would be just as clean. This is because cleanliness is deeply ingrained in their tradition and culture.

As we were running late for Dawki, we rushed to the car. Dawki is about 30 kms away from Mawlynnong. The India-Bangladesh border begins alongside the road, approximately 5 kms before Dawki. In some places, you'll notice that the border fencing is absent. The entire road falls under the control of the Border Security Force (BSF).

Although the pristine beauty of Bophills Waterfall along the way to Dawki tempted us to stop, we resisted, knowing we wanted to fully experience the picturesque beauty of the Dawki River.

When we reached Dawki, there was heavy traffic, and the boating service was about to close. We got out of the car and started walking toward the boating area. By that time, our driver had spoken with someone who arranged for a boatman to take us. The boatman then led us to the boat. Later, we learned from the boatman that the person who contacted him was an agent, and the boatman has to pay a commission to the agent per trip. The boating cost was 800/- per hour.

The original name of the river is the Umngot River. As it flows through Dawki town, it is referred to as the Dawki River. I was spellbound by the landscape and the crystal-clear water of the river. The boatman sailed his boat toward the white riverbed, formed by large white stones, while singing ‘Row, row, row your boat, gently down the stream. Merrily, merrily, merrily, merrily, life is but a dream’ for my son.

Fishermen were sitting on the hilly rocks beside the river, catching fish. The boatman was a charming teenage boy, well-spoken, and conversant in English. He explained that they earn from boating for only six to seven months a year, from October to April. During the rest of the year, their main sources of income are fishing and betel nut.

During our conversation, we crossed a bridge built by the British, which connects the Khasi Hills with the Jaintia Hills.

We reached the white riverbed, where local people were selling tea, coffee, and snacks. As a tea addict, I couldn’t resist enjoying the serene beauty of nature with a cup of tea.

By the time we reached the parking area, it was around 6:30 PM. Our driver had his tea, and we finally started for Shillong at 7:00 PM. We took the Jaintia Hills route, which was quite isolated. There were no tourist vehicles, and at times, there was no light on that route—only dark hills beside the road. It was an extraordinary experience.

We had our dinner near Jowai, but we found very few restaurants open on that route at night.

We arrived at Pinewood Hotel exactly at 11:00 PM. By then, my son had fallen asleep after such a hectic day of travel. We didn’t take the time to freshen up and went straight to bed.

The next day was dedicated to authentic Khasi food, shopping for Khasi garments, and visiting the house where Rabindranath Tagore stayed for a month.

After having tea at the hotel, we went to Rabindranath Tagore’s house. Originally, it was a bungalow owned by a British official. Later, it was purchased by K.C. Dey, whose wife was related to Tagore.

As we walked along the pine-lined road toward the bungalow, I realized why Rabindranath Tagore had chosen this place for solitude—even in this century, its tranquillity remains unchanged. Inside the bungalow, many of his personal belongings, such as his bed, writing desk, and chair, along with some artworks, were on display.

We then went to You & I Art Cafe for breakfast to enjoy some authentic Khasi delicacies. The cafe was so beautifully decorated that, upon entering, one could immediately sense the deep-rooted culture and traditions of the Khasi people. Inside, musical instruments, handloom weaving machines, traditional textiles, crockery, and even Khasi alphabets were displayed, offering a glimpse into their heritage.

The people were hospitable and friendly. One of the women at the cafe not only suggested what to eat but also demonstrated how to enjoy the dishes properly.

Guests were offered a welcome Rosella drink at the cafe. I had Phan-Saw, Jhur Im, and Tungtap (vegetarian), while my husband had Pu-tharo and Dohsniang Nei-iong (non-vegetarian). We also tried Sha-Ja-Jew (Rosella tea) with homemade cookies.

I highly recommend that everyone take the opportunity to explore this lesser-known yet delightful cuisine from this part of Northeast India.

We returned to the hotel in the afternoon and later went to Police Bazar in the evening for shopping. We bought clothes for our parents and child, including Khasi shawls and jackets for men and Khasi handloom kurtis for women.

The next day, we had a flight from Guwahati in the evening. After breakfast, we set off to leave Shillong with happy hearts as my husband affirmed that this wouldn't be our last visit to Meghalaya—there was still so much more to see, feel, and experience in the abode of clouds. As we drove back toward Guwahati, I reflected on the memories we had gathered—watching the mist dance over waterfalls, sailing on crystal-clear waters, and walking through pine-scented trails. The beauty of this land, so deeply intertwined with nature and tradition, left an everlasting impression on our hearts.